Sunday, May 12, 2019

Blog 21: Perranporth to Portreath : Feels like Poldark Country. Acts of Kindness. Trouble maker.

Hello all



I have loved my stay at Trencreek holiday park and I was sorry to leave early this morning. I knew where I was walking from and to, but I had no idea where I was going to park in Perranporth or whether the fairly complicated bus arrangements to get me back to Perranporth would be successful. As to where I was going to park up and sleep tonight, that was a mystery as yet to unfold.
I arrived in Perranporth at about 8.00 and found a place to park, for free, a little bit up the hill on a housing estate.
What a joy it was finding my way out of Perranorth and I couldn't help remembering my frustrated state of mind, just yesterday, as I tried to do the same in Newquay.

Let it go Rob......Let it go!

So, I was walking by 8.30 and soon out on the cliffs enjoying the early morning sunshine and the peace and quiet.
Looking back at Perranporth Beach - not a person in sight

An empty path - away and away into the distance

Early morning long shadows
I soon came upon some old mine workings but these were not the ruins of the tall round ventilation shafts as seen in Poldark. This was a much more modern mine. The light was lovely and the shapes of what was left of the structure reminded me of something but I couldn't bring to mind what. Looking at it now I feel it has the look of a modern version of the Easter Island statues. Others may well have their own ideas. It's actually one of my favourite pictures that I have taken so far.



Then the landscape changed to a moorland feel and the path was bordered by gorse and heather. I started to wonder where a walker would wild camp in such a terrain and despite looking for a couple of hours, I couldn't find anything even remotely suitable. I'm glad I am not wild camping until after St Ives.

There are lots of disused mines in this area. I was lucky enough to bump into a very nice chap who was walking his dog. After the usual small talk about the weather and "how far are you walking?" sort of stuff, I asked him about the mine in the picture above. They were the Cligga mines. Tin and copper were mined there but the premium metal was tungsten. He said that there is often talk of opening up the mines again but he thought that nothing would come of it. There is a value in some of the more spectacular mines as tourist attractions. He runs a small campsite nearby and he told me that a couple were staying there recently who were walking the coast path in the other direction to me. Apparently, when he suggested that they were nearing the end of their adventure (Minehead is only 200 miles away), they said that they were going on after Minehead by a route which takes in many of our long distance paths all the way to John O Groats. Well the best of luck to them. What an achievement that will be. 
I came across a mine which was very spectacular and as a result the Sunday walkers had come out in force to look and photograph it.
"Get Ross, There's been an explosion at the Mine"

I walked through my favourite small seaside village so far. It is called Travaunce. The average age of the place plummeted as I entered the village. Everybody appeared to be "old".  As I dropped down the hill towards the village I found a sign offering an alternative route through the communal gardens. These were delightful with natural and imaginative planting and lots of lovely places to sit and contemplate. The locals were out in force weeding and planting and each one said a cheery hello as I passed. Two old chaps were having a bantering argument with each other. One was complaining about the prices that the other charges for parking. (£3 all day seemed quite reasonable to me.) The old chap running the car park was criticising the quality of the other chaps sweeping up. "You might as well do a decent job". With good nature they both tried to draw me into their argument. I had a bit of fun switching my support from one to the other until they cottoned on and told me to "get out of the village and never come back". Then said to each other "He's nothing but a trouble maker".

I arrived in Portreath, just in time to see the 13.42 bus leaving. This meant that I had a 2 hour wait until the next one. So I sat on a bench and put a post on Facebook explaining that there would be little chance of a blog this evening given the time that I would get back and get parked etc. 
Then the wonderfully good natured element of social media kicked into action. Jaye (who I don't really know as yet. She has been following these blogs and messaged me before), messaged me and told me that her friend Mel may be able to help me out.
Well to cut a long story short, Mel got in touch and she picked me up, and now I am sitting in my van typing a blog on the "caravan park" of Mel and her husband Andy. I've had a lovely shower and I'm about to join them at a local pub for a Sunday roast. Oh this walking business is hard at times!

Take it easy.

Rob


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