Blog 24 : St Ives to Lamorna (three days). "Calamity". and more!

Hello all

I'm back and have I got a story to tell!

I'll cut straight to the foolishness of my thoughts and ambition.  Many months ago I promised myself and others that I would be wild camping for the duration of the walk from St Ives to Marazion. Before leaving home I packed up a rucksack with everything (excluding food) that I would need to wild camp for four days. When I slung it onto my back it was clear that I was not fit enough to carry it for a day, let alone, a long time.  But, I would be 3 weeks into the walk by the time that I would have to carry it, so I would be a lot fitter than I was at the time of rehearsal. And yes, I was a lot fitter and I didn't recognise my legs which had grown in thickness over the duration of  the 200 or so miles since Minehead.

I decided that I would go ahead with my plan; in fact I didn't want to consider the alternative.
One other massive influence in this blunder was my lack of planning. I should have read the summary from the South West Coast Path guide -

St Ives to Pendeen, 13.7 miles (22.0 km)

 Challenging - Severe. This is one of the toughest sections of the entire Path, due to the rocky and sometimes boggy ground, and so progress is slower than you may anticipate - but the views make up for it.

 The path can be narrow and rough in places and all amenities require inland detours, so it is advisable to allow plenty of time and stock up on provisions at the beginning of the day.

When I set off from St Ives it soon became clear that the heaviness of the pack meant that I was in for a tough day. After a mile I recognised that different parts of my body were grumbling than I had been used to.  Staying upright was one of the problems. The pack made me much more top heavy than normal so I had to  constantly use my walking poles to steady myself. 

A few miles in and the path became extremely difficult. There was a lot of scrambling, both up and down. Balance was essential and I became quite nervous of falling and hurting something. 

"Going far?" people would say as they looked warily at my rucksack, bulging with stuff.

"St Ives to Pendeen", I would reply.

"Pendeen?"

"Yep".

"Blimey mate! Rather you than me".

After a few more verbal encounters like these, I was starting to doubt whether I could do it.

But, I had a place to stay in Pendeen, which had been kindly arranged by Weeb.  Her friend who lives at the lighthouse at Pendeen had arranged for me to stay at the local pub's camping field. It was a great offer which I had accepted happily. So I had to get there.

So I plodded on, going slower and slower. I wasn't looking at the view, which I am sure would have been stunning - I was looking at my feet, hoping that I wouldn't trip.

Then it happened..... I lost my footing while scrambling down a rocky descent, and try as I might, I couldn't stop the weight of my pack hurtling me down over the rocks. I landed on my side with a terrible thump and I waited for the pain to start. But the only pain that I could feel was in my shoulder and that was not serious. I got to my feet and straightened myself out and scrambled on. When I managed to get through this particularly difficult section of the path I stopped because I could feel a small pain in my left leg. There was a nasty graze which was bleeding.

I stopped for a rest and something to eat and this gave me a chance to do a bit of simple first aid on my leg and to think about the ordeal yet to come. After all, I was only about four miles into the walk.

It was clear by then that it was going to be a long day. I usually plan on walking about 6 hours and I knew that I was unlikely to do it in less than 8 hours.

By the afternoon I was walking so slowly that I wasn't sure when I would finish. Then a really nice thing happened. There were a couple of men who I had seen a few time that day as we passed each other along the way. They would stop for nice long breaks and I would pass them, then sure enough, a little later they would overtake me. We exchanged a bit of banter as this happened. Mid way through the afternoon they overtook me again for what I believed would be the last time and after they did so, I noticed that one of them had stopped and he walked back to me. 

"Would you like a half of my steak and Stilton pasty?"

Without hesitation I took it and thanked him.

"You look like you need it more than I do".

Then he said, "Look after yourself," and he was gone.

I sat down where I was standing on the path and devoured the pasty. Then I opened my rucksack and found the energy sachets that I carry for emergencies and I drank them. I also drank all of my remaining water.

I walked on and soon I started to feel a bit stronger. I refilled my  water bottle from the next clear looking stream (my bottle filters out impurities). 

The rest of the walk was one of sheer endurance and I got absolutely no enjoyment from it whatsoever. (Sometimes when I am doing a difficult exercise class at the "leisure" centre it gives me pleasure to know that I am pushing myself, but this was very different.)  I counted my steps as I went, I tried to put out of my mind my aching shoulders, hips, calves and my sore feet. I was walking so slowly now and just wanted it to stop.

Nine and a half hours since I left St Ives, I walked into The North Inn at Pendeen and I have rarely felt as relieved as I did at that moment.

Di (the lady from the lighthouse) was there and was wondering why I was so late. I couldn't explain, but just said that it was harder than I thought.

I drank down two pints of lovely tap water and then went to pitch my tent.

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I phoned Jennie and together we came to the correct conclusion that I would not be able to carry the pack again. It was a massive relief to hear her suggest exactly what I wanted and needed to do.

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I had a shower then limped into the bar for food and drink -

Gammon, Egg, Chips and Peas and three pints of Tribute.

 As I was leaving the pub to go to my tent, the barman (who had noticed that I had been charging my phone) said - "All charged up then!".

I didn't hear him properly, then realised what he said.

"Oh, you mean the phone. I thought you meant - I'm all charged up".

"No I meant the phone...... To be honest with you mate, you don't look too good, if you don't mind me saying".

"That's fine. I think I agree". 

Then I limped off to bed.

I couldn't get to sleep even though I was extremely tired because of my feet which were throbbing and my shoulders and hips which were aching. I took a couple of paracetamol and they seem to work somewhat. As I dropped off to sleep I was dreading what I would feel like in the morning.

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And...........

In the morning I was surprised how good I felt. So, leaving the tent and most of my stuff inside it, I set off to walk from Pendeen to Sennen Cove, just 9 miles of tricky but not too difficult path.

I found it very difficult even with a very light pack on my back.

The next day was from Sennen Cove to Lamorna (12 miles) and this too was a struggle.

So, I concluded that I had spoilt my chances of finishing this challenge by one day of foolishness.

Again, I chatted it through with Jennie and she suggested a day off. And today is that day.

It's lovely having a day off (it should have been tomorrow but it doesn't change anything much in my itinerary). I had a lie in, a nice leisurely breakfast, lots of fresh coffee and read a chunk of my book whilst listening to some music - bliss!  Also I did some laundry and was so pleased with my makeshift washing line that I took a photo of it -

The walking poles come in useful again, and the van (more about the van later)

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Sorry if all that hardship stuff in the first section is a bit of a downer, but it seemed important to get it said. Anyway I am already feeling better in myself and better about the experience of those last few days. So much so that here are some photos of some things that I saw along the way.

Early morning in St Ives - before the crowds.

A view!

The sea was very lively in this spot - maybe the tides were turning

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The tin and arsenic mining from this area was very evident and I will return to find out more about it. The locals in The North Inn seemed nonplussed by my enquiries.  It was as if they have accepted that it is a dead industry and want to move on with their lives. The visitor centre at Geevor Mine will surely be more willingly informative. I loved walking through this section of the path.

St Helen's Oratory

St Helen's Oratory at Cape Cornwall dates back to Roman times - A special place.

Lands End

The least said about Lands end the better. What should be a really important and lovely part of the experience and a beautiful and rugged area, is ruined (in my opinion) by the theme park which has sprung up around it. I made a few calls home to my family, then I was out of there as fast as I could move.

Lands End.

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Wildlife

Two of the many animals which I have been hoping to see on this trip have been spotted by me in the last few days. I saw two seals "Bottling" (I did see a seal a couple of weeks ago actually).

And the rare Chough or Cornish Chough as the Cornish like to call it. It is pronounced "chuff".

Anyway, while walking from Pendeen to Sennen, I came across a hastily erected sign warning walkers to move through the area swiftly and without making too much noise as choughs had been spotted there. As if on cue, two of the orange beaked beauties landed on the edge of a disused mine-shaft directly in front of me. I moved swiftly on without much sound. Then I saw another chough a few yards off. I was delighted. They make a loud squawking sound as they fly. 

A couple of days later I heard the sound again but couldn't see any birds. Then I spotted the two seals, so sat down on the hillside to watch them bobbing up and down in the sea. As I watched, a chough landed very close to me. I slowly got out my phone and selected the camera setting. I waited a few seconds for the bird to settle then zoomed in as well as I could, then tried to hold my phone steady as I pressed the shutter button a few times. Here is the best result. I may enter it in the Country File 2020 Calendar competition. A sure fire winner I believe.

Just look at the beautiful plumage. What a marvelous picture!

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The paths rolls on and I'm actually looking forward to getting my feet moving again. 

Take it easy.

Rob

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