Blog 46 : Lulworth to Worth Matravers, Worth Matravers to South Haven Point. Last Blog.

Hello all.

This will be the last of my blogs. The reason for this decision is a simple one, I have finished the walk.

But first, I have two days of walking to describe -

Walking out of Lulworth Cove at about 8.30 in the morning is a very different experience to arriving at 4.00 in the afternoon. The only people to be found are the workers who keep the place going and a few walkers keen to get an early start. It is easy to see what has drawn tourists and artists to this stunning place over the last few centuries. And, it looks better with fewer people milling around and I include myself it that.

But, I couldn't totally appreciate the beauty of the place on this  sunny Saturday. And the reason was  as we approached Lulworth I spotted fluttering proudly on the top of the hill a red flag. People who know this area will be aware that a red flag means that the Lulworth ranges are out of bounds and cannot be walked across. This would completely scupper my plans. While Jennie waited in the car, I visited the visitor centre only to find that it doesn't open until 10.00. Somewhere in that building is a notice board with information about when the military firing ranges are open for walkers. 

But, I had checked, and checked again, and I "knew" that there should not be a red flag flying today or tomorrow (Sunday). I had a last look at the MOD website and decided that I would walk on for the mile, or so, leading up to the start of the restricted area and see what I would find there. 

The walk out of Lulworth is straight upwards; up the inappropriately named Little Bindon. From the slopes of the hill it is easy to see the security gate and fences that mark the start of the Lulworth ranges, and there was a red flag flying there too. With a sinking feeling in my stomach I walked towards the gate. 

Then out of the corner of my eye I spotted a military style vehicle driving towards the gate and.... a man got out and lowered the flag. Hooray! 

Apparently the gate is not opened until 9.00. 

I shot through that gate like a greyhound out of a trap and started out on what was to be one of my hardest days of walking on the whole adventure. 

Lulworth to Worth Matravers is well known for it's beauty and it's grueling nature. Little Bindon was just an appetiser for what is to come - Bindon Hill, Rings Hill, Gold Down and Tyneham Cap make up an exhausting main course then, following a shortish flat section through the Kimmeridge area, a compulsory dessert section follows in the form of Houns-tout Cliff. Add into this lot a blistering sun and it all adds up to the most tiring day that I have experienced since North Cornwall. 

Mupe Bay and the hills stretching off into the distance.

Walking through the ranges adds an experience that is found nowhere else on the South West Coast Path. A few days earlier I had heard the sounds of machine guns and larger stuff being fired and as I looked down on the areas where this was taking place the sight was striking. There are rusting and damaged tanks all over the place and areas of burnt undergrowth. Without a soldier to be seen, I had to imagine what it was like when all the noise of mock battle was happening. I found the whole experience rather uncomfortable, whilst at the same time fascinating. 

All along the walk are warning signs to ensure that the inquisitive walker stay on the path and not explore the various wrecks of tanks. The prospect of unexploded shells is suggested as a good reason to stick to the path. I came across one sign which demonstrated the mayhem of firing.

Evidence of three good, or poor, shots.

A hole about the size of a golf ball
(but not made by a powerful golfer)

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There is a beautiful bay called Worbarrow which can be visited only when the Army are not using the area. It involves a fairly long walk down from the Tyneham car park and is well worth the effort.

Not a great photo of what was a lovely place. Worbarrow Bay

As I was walking along the ridge, with the village of Tyneham on my left, I saw a couple of people walking towards me. As I got closer I realised that I recognised one of them. John Howell is a member of Exeter and District ramblers. He was walking with Ro? (maybe short for Rowenna). This was the first time that I had bumped into anybody on the path that I knew from before my walk started. I was really chuffed that it had happened and we chatted for a while before I continued my walk with a smile on my face. 

The marvelous view back towards Lulworth. Stunning coastline.

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The coastline changes as the path passes through the Kimmeridge area and the Army ranges are left behind. Kimmeridge is a geologically interesting area and there is a visitors centre there for budding geologists.

The Kimmeridge ledges. Bedrock formed in the late
Jurassic Epoch.

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By now, the sun was fully out and doing a powerful job on me. My legs felt like they were made of lead and there were still a couple of good climbs to come. I notice that I did not take any photos after the one above. Clearly I was not in the mood to appreciate the view any more. It was all about keeping going and getting to the end.

Eventually I arrived in Worth Matravers and met Jennie in the pub there. A pint of cider disappeared far too quickly and I daren't have another. Reluctantly we left the pub 

I slept for most of the car ride back to the camp site.

I was a bit worried that I would be too tired to walk the next - and last - section tomorrow and as the sun went down I got into bed in the hope that a good night of sleep would revitalise me.

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The Last Day.

Clouds, lovely clouds.

What a relief to see that at least I would be walking for two, maybe three hours before the sun was due to come out. 

I decided that I wouldn't take any photographs for the duration of the 14 miles that make up the final walk of the South West Coast Path. My reasoning was that I would keep the experience to myself in some kind of strange selfish way. And I kept to this most of the way. But here is one of Swanage and another of the Old Harry Rocks.

My only description of this walk is this - It was a lovely and varied walk and I really enjoyed it. It wasn't the most stunning walk, but in some way, that is appropriate. 

There is one thing that happened which pleased and amused me and I would like to tell you about it.

As Jennie and I sat on a bench on Swanage seafront we spotted a young girl who was combing the beach with a grabber in her hand. She was collecting rubbish.

Rubbish (and particularly plastic) collecting is a new and welcome feature of our times. Most of the beaches on the whole coast path have had signs in place suggesting that people should collect 10 pieces of rubbish, and equipment is supplied for this purpose. I have witnessed many people collecting, and the resulting piles of plastic and paper. On one beach, I think it was Thurlestone, I joined in and collected my ten pieces.

In Swanage, what we saw was a girl who couldn't find any rubbish. The beach was clean. The look of disappointment on her face was clear as her dad walked along the prom and pointed out tiny little bits of paper. Eventually she managed to collect about 5 or 6 meagre pieces of rubbish and Jennie and I walked on and left her to her fairly fruitless task. 

What a brilliant outcome and what a marvelous scheme the "10 piece collections" are - a clean beach!

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The last 3 miles is along the beach at Studland Bay. I spent the time reflecting on what I had achieved since April 24th. 

I have had three and only three constant companions for the whole adventure. 

One unwelcome one is my corn. I had the little blighter for a few weeks before I started walking and it has grumbled about what I have put it through with every day of the experience. Visually it looks like nothing much, but the nasty thing punches well above it's weight and has caused me to grimace with pain on many occasions. There is no photograph of my corn.

The second companion is the pebble that I picked up on Minehead beach which I have carried, without fail, for every single step of the 630 miles from Minehead to the end of the walk.

 And, the third constant is the sea. The sea has been the backdrop for so many of my photographs and has never had a starring role. It is the sea that makes and shapes this beautiful and dramatic coastline and continues to do so and will do so for as long as there is a coastline to shape.

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Jennie told me a few weeks ago that some of my friends had said that they would like to be at the finish when I arrived there. Whilst I really appreciated their thoughts, I really did not want this to happen. 

Walking the path has been a singular thing for me. I have really enjoyed it when I was joined for some bits of the walk by friends, old and new; but for me it has been a relationship between me and the coastline. Walking along the beach on my own was my last opportunity to engage in this relationship.

Another reason is that I am known by my family and close friends to be a very emotional person. I can burst into tears at the drop of a hat. I didn't want the last few hundred yards to be a battle between me and my emotions.

I could see Jennie waiting at the end of the walk when I was about three hundred yards away and when she waved to me I felt the beginnings of an enormous lump in my throat. For a minute or two I surrendered to the emotion and allowed some tears to appear. Then I pulled myself out of this and walked on to meet her. 

Thank-you Jennie for being absolutely brilliant. I could not have done the walk without you and your support. Maybe it could be your turn next!

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This may be a bit of a random thought but I would like to share it with you. 

Perfume is not something that I thought would feature in my experience of walking the coast path.

I didn't realise that the thought was developing in my brain until recently. 

The other day it dawned on me that while I am walking I do not smell any perfume or perfumed products. Then, as I am approaching built up areas and some people, who are out for a short stroll, cross my path, I notice the various scents. Then as I head off into the wild paths the smells end.

This is the rule with one, and only one exception................Patchouli oil is the choice of some walkers.

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One final thought.

(I always knew that I was going to write this next bit in my last blog.)

This is Culbone Church in North Somerset. It is a Pre-Norman building and seats about thirty people.

On the second day of my walk I went into the church with Jan and Andy to look around and to shelter from the rain. After a while Jan and Andy walked on and left me to eat my lunch in peace.

I selected a pew and sat and enjoyed a coffee and a snack and contemplated the world of religion which has nothing for me. I really love churches but religion is something that other people get a lot from and I would never try to alter their way of thinking.

I felt very comfortable there.

This is the pew which I sat on. As you can see it has been well used over the years and many, many people will have worshiped there. 

As I packed away my thermos and stuff, I noticed something shining in the place directly where I had been sitting. 

I looked closely and what I saw was a tiny silver star nestled in the grain of the ancient oak seat.

Take it easy.

Rob.

Ps

If you have enjoyed my blogs, and/or you are impressed by my walking efforts, or for any other reason - I would like you to consider whether you could make a donation to the charity which is important to me.

The Fertility Network is a charity which deserves support.

Thank-you to everybody who has donated.

And, thank-you.

www.justgiving.com/fundraising/RobSetter