Tuesday, May 21, 2019

Blog 27: Porthleven to The Lizard. Cold, Cold, Cold. Hot, Hot, Hot. Pesky Flies.

Hello All

Lets start with a couple of pictures that demonstrate my good fortune:
The sunset on Rinsey Head

Good morning Rinsey Head
When I was walking yesterday I spotted the car-park at Rinsey Head and checked the signs and there wasn't one that said "No Overnight Camping", so that must mean that they don't mind overnight camping. Well that's the way I took it. So after the walk I stocked up with two bottles of cider and drove there hoping that I could stay the night without any hassle.
It really was gorgeous there and once the car park had emptied of all the day walkers, I had it to myself apart from a couple of all night fishermen who turned up at about 9.00 pm. I didn't hear them leave again but they were gone when I got up at 6.00.
Rinsey Head car park was great improvement on the lay-by just outside Porthleven of the previous night.


As you can tell, I got up early and had the van parked in Porthleven and was walking by 7.15. As I walked around the harbour the early morning quiet was broken by joyous laughter and screams from somewhere across from where I was walking. This is what I saw and I carefully and quickly took a photo as evidence:

Five women having an early morning dip. (Not a wet-suit in sight)
The only other person who was around to witness this (which I am sure is a regular event) was a lone fisherman who was fishing from the quay.
"You wouldn't catch me dead in there. Too bloody cold if you ask me. I'd have a heart attack".
"So, I would catch you dead in there".
"I suppose you would". Then he started laughing and I could still hear his laughter mingled with the cheerful noises from the other side of the bay as I walked on up the hill.

The walk from Porthleven is a fairly easy but long affair of 13 miles. The weather was glorious and I was extremely happy as I strolled along.  I remember some of this walk from a few years ago when Jennie, Helen and myself walked it as far as Mullion Harbour. Both then and now I stopped at two of the same places. The first was St Winwaloe (The Church of the Storms) at Church Cove. I couldn't resist taking some photos of the gravestones. Also I took one of the church which almost merges into the environment.





The next place I stopped at was Poldhu Cove. The cafe had just opened for business so I ordered an Americano ("No milk Thank-you"). I sat there for about 45 minutes and read my book. This is the first time that I have added the extra weight of a chunky paperback to my pack, but I have really gotten into the story. I had to force myself to put the bookmark back in place and drink the last of my cold coffee, so that I could continue on my way. (Not before asking the chap serving at the cafe if he would fill up my water bottle.
It was getting hot and I had already drunk all of my water. It got hotter.

Soon after this I was bothered by thousands of tiny flies. This isn't the first time it's happened but it was by far the worst and went on for ages. They weren't biting flies but they swarmed all around my head and it was most uncomfortable. If it went on for too long it would drive you mad.
Inevitably it reminded me of a time when Jennie and I had a holiday in The Trossachs. I know that this story is known to many of our friends, but it is worth telling again.

Having spent an enjoyable night in Glasgow at a good hotel, we headed north for a few days of camping and walking. I had bought walking guides and a map or two of the area. We arrived at a picturesque campsite close to the banks of Loch Lomond. We set up our tent at a little distance from the other campers and congratulated ourselves on a great choice of campsite. I poured two glasses of red wine while Jennie went up to the facilities. I then settled myself in a camping chair and listened to some suitable music while I sipped my wine. Jennie came back and said that some people were walking around with what looked like bee keepers hats on.
Suddenly I noticed a black cloud rising from the marshes which were nearer to our tent than any of the other tents. The little pests were on us in seconds. There was nothing for it but to dive into the tent. We weren't safe in there because they were coming in through any gap they could find, so we had to get into the bedroom bit and zip ourselves in. Some followed into the inner sanctum and we tried to deal with them. I braved it and ran up to the shop which was close to the reception and bought a mosquito coil. It worked a bit but we were already bitten, especially Jennie. We couldn't stand it.
It was decided that our camping holiday in Scotland was ending 2 days early, in fact the next morning. With a few of the blighters still around we bundled up everything and shoved it all in the car. We headed South swearing that we would never go to Scotland again. Ever.
Two more things happened on that trip. We had to find somewhere else to stay and although where it was escapes me now, what I do remember is that as we pulled the tent out of the car, a swarm of midges came out too. We had brought them South. They were even in the tent (not for long).
It was prearranged that we would stay at The Midland Hotel in Morecombe for one night as a special treat. The Midland is an Art Deco hotel. We got all dressed up for a lovely meal in the evening. The dining room was stunning and the glorious sunset was visible through the enormous windows. A photo of us would have been nice, but there are no photos to mark the occasion. Poor Jennie's forehead was covered in bites and although she looked stunning, no photos were allowed.
It has become one of our favourite memories and one we compete with each other to tell.

I'm on the Lizard.  My friend Terry is due any minute so I'll quickly add some more photos before he gets here.

Mullion Harbour - Tide out.

A view of Mullion Harbour. 

Mullion Island

I've forgotten exactly where this is but it's near The Lizard

That could be a Mediterranean bay. Look at the colour of the water.

Looking towards The Lizard. The farthest place South in Britain (Mainland)


Oh yes, another thing - I went over the 300 miles of walking today.

Take it easy.

Rob

www.justgiving.com/fundraising/RobSetter

1 comment:

  1. Well done Robert, almost half way, lots of love, Karen and Adrian

    ReplyDelete